The Runway as an Operating Room
Alessandro Michele celebrates hybridity and underscores diversity on a clinical, aseptic platform, flanked by emergency beds and waiting room chairs.
Surrealism and special effects converge on the Gucci runway, where the brand once again blends eras, traditions, cultures, and continents within a framework that emphasizes individuality. In an unprecedented display of creativity, it surprises the audience with its parallel universes. This captivating vision is brought to life by Creative Director Alessandro Michele, who assumes the role of ‘surgeon’ for the collection.
The setting evokes a real operating room, meticulously arranged for the occasion. On this sterile stage for the Fall/Winter 2018 collection, the Cyborgs—hybrid, paradoxical beings that defy dualities and dichotomies—grace the runway, fusing nature and culture, masculinity and femininity, normalcy and alienation, psyche and matter.
The concept draws inspiration from philosopher Donna J. Haraway’s Cyborg Manifesto, where the hybrid is symbolically celebrated as a transcendent entity. Haraway advocates for the breaking of predefined categories and the dissemination of diverse perspectives, elevating individuality and personal identity.
Surrounding the runway in the Gucci Hub near Milan, hospital-green walls, emergency beds, and lamps set the scene, evoking a clinical atmosphere, while ambient sounds—reminiscent of heartbeats and machine beeps—permeate the air.
Models, some holding their own heads in their arms, others accompanied by baby snakes or miniature dragons (inspired by Legend of the Baby Dragon in the Jar), and some bearing mysterious creatures seemingly from fantastical realms, embody this vision of transformation.
The Cyborgs are clad in long velvet gowns, luminous slip dresses, tweed women’s jackets, and rhinestone-embellished technical sneakers. Bomber jackets with sportswear undertones are paired with lace evening dresses, and headgear includes turbans, balaclavas, crystal helmets, and cloche hats.
The runway is dominated by sequins, crystals, logos, and transparent fabrics, with embellishments such as bows, fringes, ruffles, and flounces. Geometric, floral, and tartan patterns alternate and overlap, creating an irreverent clash of contrasts.
The collection signals the emergence of undefined, culturally conscious entities, ready to embrace emancipation and champion diversity. These figures choose to define themselves on their own terms and, in doing so, assert their true identities.
